beautiful so-cal

Yesterday the waves were huge, everyone got so beat up, it was funny. There was this nasty current that ripped us from the pier all the way to the jetty in less than half an hour, for those who don't know it's about a half mile. There were only a few ridable waves, but dropping in on a ten or twelve foot face of water and being forced along at some ridiculous speed with a guarantee of being eaten alive at some point, what an adrenaline rush. A day like yesterday certainly is a testament to why so many people worship surfing. We are created to worship something, that is obvious, and something powerful, that too is obvious. How, oh how, do we lose sight of God in the midst of all this?